warno is one complex game. This guide will assist with gameplay, review deck making, controls, and basic tactics. First, let's begin with deck building. In warno, there's a division system maker where you can create divisions. Loosely based on historical units, and I mean loosely. Before I begin the guide, it must be noted that Eugene is continuously adding to the game and changing the dynamics and balance, and some of these guides will need to be changed in the future. If you look at 39th, you'll see the first logistic tab, which encompasses both supply and command units, aka also known as CVS. It must take at least one CD from the tab and a minimum of two supply types. Ideally, you want a fast supply that can reach the front quickly as possible. Universe 2 supply can be given both ammo, fuel, and replenish health. The ammo and health regeneration applies to all unit types, including infantry. Furthermore, supply trucks should not have fuel, meaning they can drive anywhere forever. Also, they cannot transfer supply from one truck to

another but this could be added later on. Helicopter Supply can be a good for the mobility, but keep them deep in the rear to their Mobility to be spotted and targeted by AAA. And already when landed, they must be landed to supply to be given. They're best used to be given to artillery, but make sure you constantly move your artillery away when firing. Make sure they don't get mistakenly counter battery. Within the Infantry tab, there's five basic types of infantry. There's your Close Quarters combat, AKA CQC. These will be your Satchel trips and flamethrower trips. Line infantry will be normal squads that come in trucks and armored troop carriers. The third type is Airborne, gets your four deployed before the entire line. Both Recon and airborne troops get four deployment before battle, and Airborne gets deployed even further than the recon units. These are ideal trips to start the game with. Lastly, there's anti-tank guide missile units, AKA ATGMs, and heavy MG teams. ATGMs and

Heavy MG units are great for defensive positions. Obviously, self-explanatory ATGMs or anti-vehicles, heavy MGs are obviously anti-infantry. Both great because it can go into housing. Now there should be player choice, but I ideally like to have a decent number of CQC troops. Most decks are limited, so it's only must take all the Flames to our troops. They'll wipe the floor with almost any form of entry, but always put them in some ATS because they cannot fight back against armor units. This is saying with natural units as well. They have no ability to defend themselves against any type of armored units. An infantry heavy detections to at least take one type of a t3m. I tend to favor the most cost-efficient type of 49th. That would be the got, however, this is open to your needs in your playstyle. Also, not every deck must take them. This is a heavy tank deck, which have many ways to kill arm units. It may be best if you took plenty, and I mean plenty of

line imagery. You should take at least two fast units and two armor ones, and whichever you feel you want more, fill in the rest. I also recommend taking one infantry CV. In most heavy infantry decks, which can help vet troops and cap Flags, it must be noted that when CVs are within range, it will rank up the unit by one level, which will be maxed out at level three. What does that energy do? It increases the accuracy, it reduces suppression, and gets a whole bunch of bonuses to that unit's stats in general. These changes are consistently changing due to Eugene's updates, so just because I mean it just needs to be noted that when you have the exact same unit one to one, the one that's vetted up will tend to win more. The tank tab is interesting because you'll see the most variety between players. I recommend you take at least some CQC tanks, which tend to be cheaper. Additionally, tanks with veteran shee are critical because whenever you get the first shot, it will drastically determine whoever wins the

engagement. Also, the game is timed for 40 minutes. To ask yourself, are you going to buy all 50, some something unvetted tanks? Um, probably not, but sometimes it's best to just bet. This is also applied to infantry as well. Also, look to their stats between models and see what tools you want. Some tanks have little differences and some immensely are packed. You'll see many tanks have or do not have ATGMs for the extra range and may want to check if the price is worth your play style and what you're using that tank for. Recon, try and at least take two to three cards. Don't fed up because Recon is best for its Optics and it has not changed the Optics by vetting up. Try to grab stuff with sheep and then the best Optics in Warner Recon is extremely necessary. Lots of players get into situations where they cannot see who's shooting them do the lack of Recon. Also, make sure you do not take the most expensive stuff because maybe it's

actually worth other players to sacrifice expensive aircraft to shoot down your expensive helo because you're spotting everything. And when that thing's down, you can't see anything. Also, every company can be great to get into the front fast. Many decks have some strong fighting Recon troops that can get to the four deployment. But it must be noted that Airborne will have a further forward deployment than your B. Continuance to be cautious where you're meeting up to the front line. When it comes to artillery, it's a must take the same take some form of artillery. Maybe one to two pieces if you really want to go all out. Three pieces Max. These are Supply dumps, so they will take up tons of ply. But let's note some artillery that's great. Things that are bigger guns are better in every regard in this game. If it's 82 millimeter mortar, you're pretty much not going to be killing anything with it. It's only going to be utilized for smoke. For all the other types of artillery, there's two types.

there's SP and toad. Toad is very deadly because you can get counter battery, and there really is no reaction for you unless you directly micro the vehicle to pick them back up and move them again. That's a lot harder than SP artillery, which you can have it fired and then give a move command somewhere else, and it just moves right after it's done firing without having to load up or anything like that. When it comes to Rocket artillery, it's a hit or miss right now. YouTube is constantly changing this, sometimes it's really good, sometimes not so good, but the best thing is about it, and that's really consistent, is suppression rocket artillery like the yugen is absolutely nasty in keeping things suppressed, so I always recommend in 39th. I think it's a must-take, so that's what I would view AAA is critical guys in warno absolutely. If you do not have enough AA, you are going to be absolutely thrashed. So what do you do? You need to vet up. You cannot take all unvetted AA. You will not hit your

missiles, and these aircraft will get away. You need to be vetting it up, and you need to have at least two or three in a net to make sure you'll shoot down whatever aircraft comes in. This is great from your gameplay because it's a fact that whenever they send an aircraft, you know you're going to shoot down, so they have to choose now to sacrifice expensive aircraft for key units instead of just willy-nilly bombing all of your, you know, soft targets. Uh, you want, there's, there's about three types of AAA in this game. There's radar base, there's infrared base, and there's direct shot face. Uh, infrared, uh, usually has a lot less range, not so good. Radar has a lot longer range but can be seated by enemy aircraft, and then there's direct fire shots, which is just like they're not using infrared, they're not using radar. It pretty much acts as infrared and it has really short range but cannot be seated as well. You should take about two to three cards, sometimes four. You want.

to make sure you have enough a to cover yourself and never get in the situation. You'll learn pretty quick after one game if you have too little or too too much. And also if you play the game, you'll figure out very quickly which one is going to be vetted up a little bit more. You kind of want to be in that 60 or plus accuracy range for direct shot like MGS and so on that fire like you know Auto cannons up in the air. You don't really need to vet up those things. Those things pretty much accepted us accuracy. And it must be noted, if you're confused about which ones are radar, which ones are infrared, which ones are direct, it's right here in the right hand corner. Just put your mouse over it. It'll tell you. Okay guys, helos, helos is super freaking important. Just because you're playing 1v1s or Team games when people reach behind your lines, they won't have AA cover. So helos are absolutely great for mopping up units and they have tons.

of rockets. Now, there's tons of different helos in this game. There's anti-tank ones, rocket ones, AA ones. So, for 39, for example, I think it's a must-take to take two cards of M24 AAA helos. Those are to counter enemy helos. Also, give you some AAA ability against aircraft. You also want to take note, though, that helos are really, everyone targets them with your aircraft. So, you must be very wary of that and know that people are going to come for them and sacrifice aircraft. And you want to make sure your helos are in positions and what you know an aircraft goes for it, your AAA is there to back it up. And even if it dies, you'll get a positive trade by shooting down that aircraft. You're gonna just want to play around with these. I recommend taking three to four cards, no matter what. Apache Rockets, you've got to take. It's a must-take as well. Some of them, you'll quickly figure out that they're very weak in health and you'll stop using them. But in general, you

always want to take some form of helos. Some decks get more than others but again must take in general. Now air is very complicated and every deck has its pros and cons but in general what do you need to take? You need to take at least one card of Fighters, whether it's expensive or not, it's up to you, that'll be up to your playstyle. Again, you may want to take two cards, you usually want to take one Elite card, maybe one card of cheap Fighters. Cheap Fighters are gonna be utilized for killing, you know, sometimes they're slower 80 planes or rocket planes, but also good for killing helos, and if you lose it, it's okay because they're really cheap. In general, you also want to bring some form of at, you want to rely predominantly, I believe, more on your ATs like sc25s that fire an ATGM at any tank, rather than clusters. Most clusters are high altitude, and the problem with high altitude is they're very easy to dodge. Low altitude clusters are a must take though, in general.

because there is zero way to dodge that and they will it hit you. HD bombers have a similar situation. You may want to try to avoid HD bombers that can be dodged, which are high altitude. They do get out a little bit faster, so that is the pros of it, but you may not get the kill. Rockets are also awesome. SC25, for example, is a must-take. It deletes almost any type of infantry or soft unit, though. Really good laser-guided bombs, similar thing, just more accuracy. HE and C seed is going to be something that's very sketchy between all the decks. Some decks have really good seed, some decks do not, so you really want to be 50 plus on that seed, or it's starting to get too expensive and probably not worth it. And you gotta take note that the seed is something to promote a winning game. It's not something you buy early out just because. If it gets hit, it's out for like eight minutes, and you paid a lot. They tend to be in the 290 plus range of cost.

and you probably only killed maybe like 120 OSHA Max pretty cheap. In comparison, you need to kill at least two or three AAA to really go positive with your seed. But in general, you really want to Max your aircraft. These will be your fast reaction units. And also, you want to have a tool for all categories. You want a good fighter, you want to create something for antique tank, you also want something for infantry, but predominantly, if you have to sacrifice any category, I recommend sacrificing HC bombers. I think it's more important to kill those heavy tanks and have a fighter to really cover yourself in a tough situation. Hotkeys are a must in Warner guys. If you don't use them, you're going to put yourself at a huge disadvantage. So let's go over the keys. WST is to obviously move camera. Attack move is Q. So if you need to do it, will mean as a unit will stop moving when it meets enemy contact and engage. And then when it's done, it will continue on to

create control groups obviously pretty easily. Control one is to create a group one, and then you just push one on your keyboard. Goes to that and you can do that through the entire number pad on your keyboard. The flare for your teammates' information, flare, and attack Beacon is F1. Deflect defense Beacon is F2. To flare a help button, you know, send no help assistance to yourself or to help out your teammate, push F3. To send a direct message, such as like, you know, attack here or need help here on the board, you can push F4, and you can type it out. Another real key is just a stop order, that's E. So you miss it order, for example, stop, just push either stop. Also, another key position is fire position, which is T. That means where you want to give your artillery. And the best thing about artillery, right, is you can create a control group, control one, pushing one on your keyboard, still be looking at the front line, not even look at your artillery, and then push T to where you want them to fire or just click.

right-click on the enemy unit. If you have visual on it, your turn weapons off and on is H. You may want to do that to save your ATGM, for example, to reverse out of a bad situation is G. So really key is that G key to back out situation. Another one with this is the B to smoke to get out of there. And if you're looking to auto-sell or not, auto-sell based off the smart orders which we'll go over a little bit later. Yeah, to evacuate units, for example, to get them to sell, you can push the V. But obviously, you can change all of these. Uh, call, you know, these are all, these are all the keys that you really need to look. I have a now image up there, you can see it. And these are key to learn, you'd utilize like they'll just make everything way more streamlined. You don't have to get direct controls, all the little orders, and it'll help you out significantly. So please look it over, learn these couple hotkeys, especially attack move, reverse.

you know move fast orders F. attack fast is n you know things are really key to playing at a high level or even a decent level with your friends. you can have a Competitive Edge maybe now I know many of you want to change some of your options and I must say the basic default options for UI and so on and orders and so on and the game is absolutely garbage so if you want to change that it'll be right behind this for some reasons options behind this but you click here good options this will be your first stuff if you want to see some rules of engagements you can come in here down here if you want your units to be Auto Resale automatically meaning that any unit that does not have a weapon it will automatically go off the battlefield and you'll get some green come back so all the trucks and so on and you don't have to micro them if you want to change this and keep one of the units on for like maybe a toad piece of artillery you can click on the unit and then give a smart

order command and keep it on the battlefield. I'll show you that when we go into battle rules of engagements or ground missiles. You get all these options here whether you want them to fire or not fire. This will be preference based. I, for example, like to have them fired everything because you never know. There usually sometimes is an infantry Squad in there and Supply is pretty. I mean cheap. Also for interface, you have some other options. You can also turn off unit aggregation if you don't like how when you zoom out all the units kind of stack on one another. You can turn that off and you'll keep it more precise. I prefer it to be off. Some guys do like it on. That is up to them. You can also change the HUD sizes here. Tactical label size and so on. Also, if you're looking to change controls in here, you don't like the. You know control one being control one. You want something else or you don't like the attack move to PQ or you want your attack move just to be your left click.

these are all options for you in here. You can change all the settings you want. Also, audio is in here looking for that. And then video for visual settings if you're looking for something like that and so on. And if you're looking for the credits to The Developers now, some people have always been asking what are the standard settings for a game of Orno. Obviously, we'll go down the whole list. When you're doing a game, usually you pick the size of the map. Six players, six players, six players. There are a couple of 4v4 maps that are set 20 players, for example, Iron Waters is a 4v4 map but it says it's a 10v10. Obviously, the two game modes of Destruction and Conquest could be more in the future, but for now, those are the only two. Conquest is flag objective capture. Destruction is killing enemy units, and those units give you points based off the cost of that unit. Obviously, you can do NATO versus NATO, NATO versus PACT. Most games are native.

versus pacto people like to play. You know the Cold War experience charting resources is 1500. That is the normal settings. If you increase or lower it, you will decrease the number of people joining your lobby. But this is the normal setting. Income rate Factor, obviously same thing is one times is the normal income Factor. You'll have about 11,000, about 11 to 12,000 points per game if a 40-minute game time limit. As I just said right there is 40 minutes. If you increase it or lower it, some divisions will become better, some Traditions will become worse. The game is competitive at the 40-minute Mark, and that's what people play at. And then for starting resources, is that 2000 point. You can decrease it or lower it, but it or increase it, sorry, but it will make a lot of people leave your lobby if you're trying to get some multiplayer games. Now there's one thing I want to know here, and a lot of people have an issue if

you've looked on one of these. It says Auto crit tactical groups. When buying identical units, this will automatically create units and it's in a blob or group together when you buy them together. This is very bad. I do not know why you didn't have this on the default setting. You should turn this off so your units are not bunched together and become a unit. And then you have to push to dissolve them every single time. Instead, if you want to create a group with them, just push control one and create a group instead of auto doing it. And then you have to micro dissolve them when you want them to go different places and give different commands of them. So turn this thing off. Okay, let's talk about some smart orders. All right, so when you're in game, you click on these units. You can see there's a whole bunch of orders down here. Obviously, some of them are just normal orders, but you have smart orders up here. So you can do cease order and hold position order. You should never, ever, and I mean never use these commands. They are

absolute garbage. The AI taking control of units is like suicide. They will not do anything you want them to do. They are bad. You must micro them yourselves. That's how you do it. Uh, there are some sort of smart orders in that great though. Fire wheel is awesome. What it'll do is if it sees enemy targets, your artillery will automatically aim at them and shoot them, which is great. It'll usually prioritize soft targets first, and sometimes enemy artillery. Defensive fire is also very good. If you want to target a certain location, so let's say there's something over here, you can push defensive fire, your counter battery will start to focus on it automatically, and you don't have to micro it on your own. Kind of battery is also very good. When anytime, anywhere artillery fires, your artillery will prioritize shooting down their artillery and counter battery. Absolutely amazing. Now let's go over AAA. How should you utilize them? So yeah, I got an OSHA here. I'm going to push control two on my keyboard, and now I have a control group. Anytime I push

number two on my keyboard. And now, if you learn how to engage and you know how to push H, you can turn them off. So, they'll turn off for you in a different color if you have vanilla colors, which you can get UI mods for. For example, if you want to change how it looks but you want to turn this off because this is a radar-based thing. And if it gets seen by any seed, it is gone. Um, you want to turn them on and off based off like what you see. Then we have or what deck they are. But in general, if you can, you want to control group all of your AA so that when something does fly by, you can just quickly push H on your keyboard and it'll turn off other weapons. And when the weapons are off, they cannot be seated, which is amazing. Also, if the unit is out of ammo, it also cannot be seated. Now, some tips for some artillery guys. You want to do is, for example, you pop a control group, which I'll control one on my keyboard, and then

you can tell it to fire it by pushing T. You can just say fire here. And then we want to do is hold down shift and give multiple orders. So grab here, move to that position, and then I can tell them to fire again, and then move positions, then fire again, then move positions, and fire again. This will pretty much make sure that you'll never ever get counter battery, then your artillery will keep firing and doing its job. And must be noted though that rocket artillery tends to have a longer fire rate, so somebody with like normal conventional SP artillery starts aiming at you right when you start firing, your Eugen will not move in time before it's done finishing a volley. So you got to be note that it's not every time, but like if there's a good shot that it will die. Also, you want to make sure when your AAA fires and you move it, you give it a new location. You know, or you can go like, or you can have it in a position like this and it gets out of the way.

may not want to do something like that. You may want to sit in a forest food line, for example, but once it's fired, you should try to move it because there should be some kind of better or even maybe a plane to come in to get it in Warner for your helicopters, guys. It must be noted that like if anyone ever sneaks around the edges of the map, for example, and gets in your rear, the helos are your friend and it's something to be known about Hilo is that they have different altitudes. So, for example, if the Hilo is at Max altitude, it has a better line of sight, it'll do more damage, and so on, but if enemy aircraft are coming in at it and you see him coming in, change altitude, go to low altitude. It increases the odds this Hilo will not die, plus it reduces its silhouette. It will not be able to be shot at from over the tree line and so on. For example, this OSHA cannot shoot it now because there's a whole bunch of forest at a higher

altitude they probably will get shot. That's something to know and uh automatically they will go down to lower altitude unless you give a command. If they're just sitting idly no and sometimes they'll even land if you're just really doing nothing as well. I don't know why they do that but it does. All right, so there's there's a couple types of cover in this game. You got no cover which is being out in the open. You got yellow cover which is being in forest. And then you got green cover which is building in buildings. Buildings will give you the most amount of protection. Next thing will be forest and then being in the open sucks. Also it must be noted when an infantry unit isn't moving it will be taking more damage. If it's stationary it will take less damage. I guess this is some like hidden mechanic in which it's you know entrenched when it's you know standing still. Obviously there's no entrenchment on the battlefield but it's cool feature nonetheless. It's something to be noted.

also want to teach about tabbing. All right, so one of the keyest things with this game is you click on all these units, right? You have a whole bunch of stuff on your bottom bar. You're like, how do I grab a key unit down here? Well, if you push control tab, it'll automatically grab the oshos. And you can do the same thing if all the units in the field. You see, push control and you push out. This will grab everything on your screen. So if I move in like this and I push control, it'll only grab these things that are on my screen. It will not grab the last one on the edge so it was off on the screen. So this is a really quick way. You can also push tabs. If you push control, for example, and then you tab, you can give individual orders, but you can shift the orders too. So it can go, you know, just tab and give different commands. If you go, if you want to tab all and give all man, just tab all the way through again and go back to the reset and now.

you're controlling all of them and give a new order. These are really E from microwing pretty fast in the game. And also, you can shift orders too so you always want to be constantly giving the words like that or go like that. You know you want to give tons of different commands and holding down shift will allow you to queue them up, which is absolutely necessary. So utilize that tab, utilize that control. It'll really help out. Also, if you grab a whole bunch of units you just want to get rid of like one of them, you can push shift and just click delete, delete, delete, delete, whichever ones you want to get out of the group. So that's really cute. And you have a bunch of different types you can just delete that. You can also push shift, I think delete as well, you know, delete everything in the tab. So utilize this. It's really, really key. I want to say this last thing in every game, a 40-minute game, there's going to be about 11,900 points in total of your.

spending. You want to make sure you vet up stuff enough where you're not having all these extra units and fluff in your deck. A lot of times when you first make a deck, and no matter what guide you're going to launch, you're going to realize you have a lot of fluff and you have a lot of excess stuff that you never use, and you could be utilizing more crucial units. So just, you're just gonna have to learn the hard way and play, and that's just something that has to happen. It has to be a learning experience. So I hope this helps help us get people, uh, the foot in the door start playing the game. Let me know what you guys think. I'll write down some tips you think should be added to this or you think, you know, is a must-know to play this game, and I'll see you guys around. Leave a like, leave a comment, tell me what you guys think, and I'll see you guys around. Thanks for watching.

WARNO Beginner Guide

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WARNO Beginner Guide

WARNO Beginner Guide

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