치즈의 다채로운 역사: 마케팅과 과학

### 치즈의 색: 치즈 제조의 주황색 거짓말 풀기
* 🧀 이 이야기에서는 많은 치즈가 주황색을 띠는 **역사적, 과학적 이유**를 살펴보고 수세기 동안 지속되어 온 **마케팅의 거짓말**을 밝혀냅니다.
* 🐑 치즈 제조는 풀을 우유로 바꾸는 소나 양과 같은 동물로부터 시작되지만, **사용하는 우유의 종류에 따라 치즈의 색은 크게 달라집니다.**
* 📜 12~13세기에는 **양이 우유의 주요 공급원**이었으며, 양은 풀의 베타카로틴을 우유로 옮길 수 없어 자연적으로 **화이트 치즈를 생산**했습니다.
* 🐄 반면 젖소는 **베타카로틴을 다른 방식으로 처리**하여 이 화합물이 우유로 전달되어 치즈에 농축되어 역사적으로 중요하게 여겨졌던 노란색을 띠게 됩니다.
* 💰 치즈 제조업체들이 이윤을 추구하면서 **버터 대신 크림을 탈지**하기 시작했고, 이로 인해 치즈가 창백해지면서 **사프란이나 당근 주스와 같은 염료**를 사용하여 치즈 색을 인위적으로 향상시켰습니다.
* 🌱 1600년대 남미에서 아나토 씨앗이 도입되면서 **치즈 착색에 혁명을 일으켰고, 더 저렴하고 강렬한 대안**이 되어 유럽 치즈 제조의 필수품이 되었습니다.
* 🎨 오늘날 공장식 축산으로 젖소의 식단이 바뀌었지만, 생생한 치즈 색상에 대한 기대는 지속되고 있으며, **아나토는 이러한 마케팅 전통**을 유지하는 데 중요한 역할을 하고 있습니다.
* 🛒 현대의 식료품점에서는 **염색된 치즈와 염색되지 않은 치즈**를 모두 찾을 수 있으며, 보다 정통적인 맛을 찾는 소비자들은 **현지 치즈 판매점에서 천연 착색 치즈**를 찾을 수 있습니다.

치즈의 선명한 주황색은 마케팅과 소의 독특한 베타카로틴 대사 작용에서 비롯됩니다.

This is a story about a lie that we've been told our whole lives. It's a story about marketing, economics, science, and biology. And most importantly, it's about why a lot of cheese is orange. Cheesemaking basically starts here. I know it seems like we're starting a little bit early on in the process, but hang in there with me. Animals like cows, buffalo, goats, and sheep naturally eat grass, which gives them the nutrients they need to produce milk, and that milk gets turned into cheese. That is one vascular utter, by the way. In the 12 and 1300s, sheep were often the main producers of milk. But the catch was that a sheep can turn their grass intake into either wool or milk, but not the same amount of both simultaneously. That's Paul Kindstedt, former president of the American Dairy Science Association and a multi-published author on the subject of cheese. Cheese, right from undergraduate work,

you know, and then through graduate school became my love. My first love. And talking about love-- Just hold on one second. And talking about love, If you love Vox content as much as Paul loves cheese and I love French fries, then you should know about our membership program. It's the best way to support our journalism and get some exclusive perks. And, pardon my eating while I explain this. I've been filming all day and haven't had a chance to have a snack, so. weeks of work go into the making of every Vox video and that goes from- mother f-- Weeks of work go into the making of every Vox video. That includes things like writing, scripting, animating, editing, filming, talking to experts like Paul, fact-checking everything. All that takes. *car honking in the distance* All of that takes a lot of time and effort, and support from our members makes all that time and effort possible. So if you want to ensure that videos,

like the ones that we make, keep can made on the internet. The best way that you can do that is by joining our membership program. So if that’s something that speaks to you, go to Vox.com/memberships and join today. Now back to the video. Switching the milk used for cheese from this (sheep baa) to this (cow moo) had a profound effect on people's perception of cheese, all because of something in the grass. Beta carotene. Beta carotene is a complex compound that creates color. It's what gives carrots, apricots, and sweet potatoes their signature orange. Grass, when it's lush, green, and in season, contains beta carotene. When sheep process the beta carotene in grass, it doesn't make its way into the milk. Therefore, sheep cheese is pretty much always naturally white. In the cow, it's a different metabolic pathway. Beta carotene goes into the cow, passes into the milk,

is part of the fat in milk and then gets concentrated in the cheese, and that's what gives cow's milk cheese its yellow color. Cheese made in sort of the spring, early summer always has been recognized as really yellow, which it is, and also higher in quality. I mean, it was always revered because of that. People really wanted yellow cheese, but cheesemakers, they wanted to make money. And the second change in terms of marketing that happened that became really important: Cow’s milk forms cream easily. So cheesemakers figured out pretty quickly that they could skim off some cream before making cheese to make butter. Butter had a better price in the marketplace. But the problem with the cheese was, with less cream, there’s less beta carotene carrying over because it's in the butter, so it didn't look as good. Farmers were ending up with yellow butter and pale cheese. But they realized that they could scam the system,

by dyeing the cheese to look like it was full of that beta carotene-filled fat. So that begins to happen in the 1400s, 1500s. And they use things like saffron or marigold or, believe it or not, carrot juice. But everything changed once these bad boys hit the market. The annatto seed. The seed comes from this shrub that grows in South America. The Dutch, who followed in the wake of the Spanish colonizers as traders, learned about annatto, and they saw markets. In the 1600s, they began to export annatto from South America to Europe because there aren't a lot of really good colorants available, and Europe is getting very wealthy, and they like colorful things. And so it didn't take long for cheesemakers to realize they could replace these expensive colorants like saffron or marigold or, you know, carrot juice because they're not very intense, and annatto was superior, and it was cheap.

And cheeses then began to be either surface applied with annatto, like the Dutch did for Gouda, or it was added to the milk to make English hard-pressed cheeses like Cheshire and cheddar look like they were from rich spring milk, you know, full of beta carotene. So the coloring was for marketing, and this then becomes the tradition over centuries. This is the way, you know, real cheese is made. And that's why today you still get cheeses that look like this. With factory farming, cows aren't as grass-fed as they used to be. Diets tend to include a lot more corn and soy. But because we've been used to centuries of saturated colors of cheese, none of that really matters when it comes to marketing. We still expect our cheddar to maintain a golden hue, and we can still thank annatto for that. Annatto is used all over food too often, making its way into many other cheese-adjacent snacks.

all of which carry on that long orange legacy. But if you go to your local grocery store, you'll see that the cheese is varied. Take this cheddar, for instance. There's the yellow dyed cheddar that we expect. And then there's the undyed white cheddar. But if you go to your local cheesemonger, you might be able to find the perfect in-between: grass-fed cheddar cheese that's naturally tinted with beta carotene. Which one you prefer is up to your own taste and expectations.

The real reason cheese is yellow

Vox helps you understand our world.

Vox video is Bridgett Henwood, Cath Spangler, Adam Freelander, Joey Sendaydiego, Coleman Lowndes, Christophe Haubursin, Kim Mas, Laura Bult, Ed Vega, Rajaa Elidrissi, and with research support from Melissa Hirsch. 

Become a member today: https://www.vox.com/support-now

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✉️ Write us: voxvideo@vox.com


치즈의 색은 소, 버팔로, 염소, 양이 풀을 먹고 우유를 생산하는 등 동물의 식습관에 영향을 받습니다.

역사적으로 12~13세기에는 양이 주요 우유 생산자였지만 양털과 우유를 동시에 같은 양으로 생산할 수 없었습니다.

이 동영상은 또한 Vox 콘텐츠 제작에 들어가는 노력을 강조하고 저널리즘에 대한 멤버십의 지원을 독려합니다.

우유 공급원이 치즈 인식에 미치는 영향

치즈 생산이 양에서 우유로 전환되면서 베타카로틴의 역할로 인해 치즈에 대한 인식이 크게 바뀌었습니다.

양 치즈는 베타카로틴이 우유로 전달되지 않아 흰색을 유지하는 반면, 우유 치즈는 농축된 베타카로틴으로 인해 노란색을 띠게 됩니다.

버터 생산을 위해 크림을 탈지하는 치즈 제조업체의 관행은 불일치로 이어져 노란색 버터와 창백한 치즈가 만들어졌고, 농부들은 시스템의 균형을 맞출 방법을 찾아야 했습니다.

아나토가 치즈 착색에 미치는 영향

1400년대와 1500년대에 사프란과 당근 주스 같은 재료를 사용하여 황금빛을 내는 치즈 염색이 시작되었습니다.

1600년대 네덜란드가 남미에서 수출한 아나토 씨앗은 치즈 제조업체들이 선호하는 값싼 착색제가 되었습니다.

치즈 착색에 아나토를 사용하는 이 전통은 오늘날까지 치즈 마케팅과 외관에 영향을 미치며 지속되고 있습니다.

체다 치즈는 노란색으로 염색한 체다 치즈와 염색하지 않은 화이트 체다 치즈 등 다양한 종류가 있습니다.

자연적으로 베타카로틴으로 착색된 목초 사육 체더는 그 중간 정도의 완벽한 옵션을 제공합니다.

이러한 품종 중 선택은 개인의 취향과 기대치에 따라 달라집니다.