수냉식 PC 시스템을 관리하는 방법: 세척, 배수 및 재충전 가이드

### 수냉식 PC를 세척하는 방법: 전체 가이드
* 🗓 TechSource의 이 동영상에서는 수냉식 PC를 관리하는 방법을 설명하며, 세척, 배수, 재충전을 다룹니다.
* 🧰 강력한 미니 ITX 수냉식 시스템인 '미니 레드'를 사용하며, 6~12개월마다 유지보수를 권장합니다.
* 🛠 필수 도구에는 EK 누출 테스터 키트, 압축 피팅, 연질 튜브, 증류수, 냉각수(예: ModMyMods), 깔때기, PSU 점퍼가 포함됩니다.
* 💧 첫 번째 단계는 냉각수를 빼는 것입니다. 배수 밸브(필수!)를 찾아 양동이에 튜브를 연결한 다음 밸브를 엽니다.  배수 밸브가 없는 경우 발표자는 유머러스하게 PC를 창밖으로 던지라고 제안합니다!
* 🔄 플러싱은 PC의 전원 공급 장치(또는 예비)를 사용하여 증류수를 순환시키는 것입니다.  발표자는 반복적으로 물을 채우고 빼는 방법과 저장통을 사용하고 PC를 기울이는 더 빠른 방법의 두 가지 방법을 보여줍니다.
* 💦 발표자는 손상을 방지하기 위해 펌프가 마르지 않도록 주의할 것을 강조합니다.  물이 맑아질 때까지 증류수로 여러 번 헹구지만 일부 잔여물이 남을 수 있습니다.
* 🔄 세척 후 증류수를 완전히 배출합니다. 발표자가 튜브와 블록에 남아있는 액체를 제거하는 방법을 시연합니다.
* 💧 마지막으로 시스템에 새 냉각수(이 경우 ModWater)를 다시 채우고 펌프를 작동시켜 순환시킨 다음 누수가 있는지 확인합니다.  완료되면 시스템을 다시 연결하고 상쾌한 수냉식 PC를 즐기세요!

TechSource는 세척, 배수, 재충전을 포함한 적절한 수냉식 PC 유지보수를 시연합니다.

What's happening, guys? I'm TechSource, and today I'm going to show you how to properly maintain

a water-cooled system. Let's say you're very interested in getting into water-cooled PCs, but

you don't know what it takes to properly maintain one, or maybe you're just bored out of your mind. Well, either way,

you're in the right place. I'm going to be doing three different things in this video: I'm going to show you how to properly flush

your entire system, how to drain the liquid completely, and fill it back up. And it's actually a lot easier than you might think. So, with

that said, sit back, relax, and let's dive right in. So this is the PC I'll be using for the

demonstration in this video. It is Mini-Red, the most powerful mini-ITX water-cooled system I've built on the

channel. If you guys missed it, definitely check it out; it was a super fun build to do. But we've got the 9900K in here

with 32 gigabytes of RAM and the ASUS Strix 2080 Ti. Pretty decent specs for

Minesweeper, if you ask me. It's also recommended to do maintenance on your system anywhere between 6 to 12

months. That's usually a good range. Think of it like your baby, right? Every time it gets dirty, you've got to change the

diapers; otherwise, if you don't, then it's going to start crying and then keep you up at

night, and then one day you wake up and it's dead. But anyway, these are the parts that we're going to be using

to do the maintenance. I'll go over every single one of them, starting with the EK Leak Tester kit. This thing is an

absolute must, not only for building a PC but also draining the liquid out of it. I'll show you guys how to use it in

To make the draining process as easy and convenient as possible, we're going to use a compression fitting along with the

appropriate size soft tubing and then whatever liquid we're going to pour into the system. So, in this case,

we're going to be flushing it with distilled water, and then I'm going to fill it back up with

clear coolant from these guys at Mod My Mods. And of course, once we're done with everything, we do have to fill the system back

up, and that is where the funnel comes in handy, or you can pick up a fill bottle as well.

And finally, you will definitely need this; this is a PSU jumper. We're going to need this little guy just to

power on the pump instead of having to turn on the entire system. It's going to make the draining and

flushing process so much easier. And once again, guys, all of this will make sense as we get into the video, so if you're confused

right now, don't worry about it; it will make sense very soon. All right, so now it's time to drain your system, so

go ahead and locate the drain valve. Typically, it's always located on the lowest part of your loop, so mine is over

here on the bottom right of this massive digital plate. If your PC does not have a drain valve, I want you guys to pay attention very

carefully. I want you to grab your PC with both hands, make sure you don't drop it, walk to the closest window in your house,

and toss it out the window, because why on earth would you build a water-cooling system without a drain valve?

That makes no sense! It's like if God created humans without a pee hole; there has to be a port

where we can drain the coolant conveniently. So, if you guys are watching this video before you even build your

Water cooling system, please! For the love of God, you will thank me later. Include a drain valve. All right, so now...

that we've located our drain valve, we're going to hook up our compression fitting and our soft tube. Uh, by the way, guys,

your drain valve might look something like this, with an actual handle on the top. If your handle is perpendicular like this, that means the

valve is closed and no liquid can go through it. And when you rotate it so it's parallel,

that's when the valve opens up, and that's when liquid can start flowing through. Keep that in mind. We're going to

separate the compression fitting, and I'm going to plug this end inside the drain valve. So once that's in, we can hook up the

soft tubing. [Music] So once the tube is on the fitting, you can go ahead and lock it with the cap.

All right, guys, so we are officially ready to drain the system. I have the tube running down to an empty bucket.

You guys can use a bucket, or a bowl, or even an empty water gallon; whatever you guys have laying around the house. Just make sure

you don't spill it anywhere on your carpet. This was from building Big Red version 3. I've spilled so much coolant

on the damn carpet! It's looking like a crime scene, to be honest. But yeah, learn from my mistakes, guys,

and make sure your tube is long enough so that at least one or two feet of it is deep inside the bucket.

Next up, we are going to twist the handle and let the coolant flow right through. There we go, slowly but surely.

All right, so you guys can clearly see that there is no more coolant coming out of the PC, but we still have so much more

coolant left in the system. What we're going to do is let some air inside the system so that it can help

Push the rest of the coolant out. What we're going to do is go back to our reservoir—in my case, it's the digital

plate—and we're going to slowly release the top plug. What this is going to do is it's

going to let some air back inside the system, and it's going to help push some coolant out. There you go.

All right, so now we are ready to officially flush the system out. It's okay if you guys still have some coolant

left in there; that is not going to matter because we're going to flush everything out using good old distilled water.

The point of the flush is to clean your system and get rid of all of the red coolant

that's inside there because I told you guys earlier that we are switching over to clear coolant. Now, there are two ways

you can flush out the coolant: you can use the power supply that's already inside your PC, or you can use a spare power supply, but

I'm sure a lot of you guys watching this don't have spare power supplies laying around, so we're going to be using

the power supply that's already inside the system. Before you guys do anything, make sure the cable is unplugged from the power

supply and the switch is set to off. First thing we're going to do is disconnect the cables from the

motherboard. Make sure you are disconnecting the eight-pin EPS connector, the 24-pin ATX cable—this one's actually

a tough spot because of the tubing, so your system I'm sure won't be as difficult—and finally, the GPU cables as well.

[Music] Remember the power supply jumper we talked about earlier in the video? We're going to plug this

straight into the 24-pin cable. This is going to trick the power supply into thinking it's actually plugged into

All right, now we're ready to plug the power supply cable back inside, but make sure the power supply is still

switched off. Do not power it on just yet. All right, guys, now the fun part: we're

going to start pouring in distilled water inside our system. So I'm going to be using this fill bottle

for convenience. I'm going to close this up. We're going to grab our fill bottle and start filling up the system

with water. Obviously, if you guys have a reservoir set up, then you can use the top port of

your reservoir to fill your system. Make sure it's nicely topped off. Once it reaches the top, we can remove the fill bottle. We're

gonna put our hand behind the power supply where the switch is, and we're gonna keep it there.

We're gonna turn the system on and we're gonna wait about 10-15 seconds and let

the pump do its thing and circulate the water back inside the system. So here we go. Whatever you guys do, do not let the pump

run dry. Now we can go back to the power supply, shut it off, we can open up the drain valve,

and start draining the coolant again. We're gonna close it back up and then rinse and repeat until the coolant is no more.

Go back to the power supply, turn it on. You guys can probably tell how much the coolant has diluted;

it's no longer a red color; it doesn't even match the cables anymore. We're basically going to rinse and

repeat these steps until there is no more colored coolant inside our system. Now, obviously, this is going to take a

long time; it's a very tedious task because you have to constantly fill the system, let it run for a little bit, drain the

System rinse and repeat. So I'm going to show you guys a different way, a much faster way of doing this.

So, because I'm using a massive digital plate, it's going to be a little more difficult compared to a standard

reservoir to drain the system. So, in order for this to be very effective, I have to tilt the PC

at a 45-degree angle and use this tiny funnel on the top port. All right, so here's the best way to flush

your system. So make sure your drain valve is closed and top off your reservoir with distilled water.

You can leave the pump on the entire time; you don't have to shut it off during this process,

which is the main reason why it's much faster than the previous method. Once the reservoir is topped off, wait

for the fresh water to cycle through the system, anywhere between two to three minutes. Afterwards, open the drain valve once again,

and let some of the liquid out of your system while making sure your reservoir doesn't get too low.

Once again, it's really important that you don't let the pump run dry; otherwise, it can overheat and damage

your pump. As you can see in the video, I'm only letting a little bit of fluid out of the

system before closing the valve and topping off the system once again. So to recap: top off your system with distilled water,

wait two to three minutes for the water to cycle through your system, drain a little bit of it out, close the

valve, rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the color of your water. All right, guys, so after two full gallons

of distilled water, this is how clear the distilled water looks in our loop. We can still see some buildup around the

rubber gaskets, and when you look at the GPU block, we can see some buildup over here as well.

where the jet stream is, and this is completely normal, especially if the coolant's been sitting in the system for

almost six months. You know, there's really not much you can do with just distilled water in getting these out. This is the main

reason why a lot of people stick with distilled water in their loop, so they can avoid situations like this.

And I always tell everyone, if you guys are going to go with solid coolant in your PC, make sure to stick with solid

coolant. If you transition from solid coolant to distilled water or clear coolant, this is what you're going to deal with. The

best way to get rid of the buildup inside your blocks is to actually take them apart and clean them by hand, which is a

completely different topic. I did do a video on this if you guys want to check it out. I'll drop a link to

it down below. All right, so once you're happy with the results, it's time to shut off the power supply.

I'm going to go ahead and check the color of the water one last time, so I'm going to drain just a little

How To Flush Your Water Cooled PC

TechSource

적절한 수냉식 PC 관리라는 동영상의 목적을 설명하는 TechSource의 소개입니다.

수냉식 PC와 유지 관리에 관심이 있는 시청자를 타겟팅합니다.

시스템 플러싱, 배수, 재충전의 세 가지 주요 절차에 대한 개요입니다.

6~12개월마다 유지 관리를 수행할 것을 권장합니다.

필요한 도구와 자료를 소개합니다.

일반적으로 루프의 가장 낮은 지점에 배수 밸브를 배치합니다.

수냉식 냉각 시스템에서 배수 밸브의 중요성에 대해 강조합니다.

배수 밸브 작동에 대한 설명(열림/닫힘 위치).

압축 피팅과 소프트 튜브를 배수 밸브에 연결합니다.

냉각수 배출 프로세스를 시작하고 용기를 사용하여 냉각수를 수집합니다.

시스템에 공기를 주입하여 남은 냉각수를 밀어내는 데 도움을 줍니다.

새 냉각수로 다시 채우기 전에 오래된 냉각수를 제거하는 플러싱에 대한 설명입니다.

플러싱을 위한 두 가지 방법: 기존 전원 공급 장치 또는 예비 전원 공급 장치 사용.

마더보드와 GPU에서 전원 공급 장치 케이블을 분리합니다.

PSU 점퍼를 사용하여 전체 시스템을 켜지 않고 펌프에 전원을 공급할 수 있습니다.

채우기 병을 사용하여 증류수를 시스템에 붓습니다.

펌프를 작동하여 물을 순환시킨 다음 배수합니다.

기울어진 PC와 깔때기를 사용하는 다른 빠른 플러싱 방법.

더 빠른 플러싱 방법에 대한 자세한 단계로, 펌프 작동 유지를 강조합니다.

2갤런의 증류수로 플러싱한 결과, 잔여물이 남아 있는 것을 확인할 수 있습니다.

최종 냉각수 배출 및 새 냉각수 보충

플러싱 후 남은 액체를 배출합니다.

배수 밸브와 상단 플러그를 열어 갇힌 액체를 배출합니다.

EK 누출 테스터 키트를 사용하여 남은 액체를 제거합니다.

튜브와 블록에서 액체를 제거합니다.

새 냉각수(ModWater)로 시스템을 다시 채웁니다.

새 냉각수를 붓고 전원 공급 장치를 켭니다.

누수 여부를 확인하고 시스템을 30분 동안 실행합니다.

유지 관리 프로세스 및 PC의 최종 모습에 대한 요약입니다.

좋아요를 누르고, 구독하고, 향후 동영상을 시청하도록 요청하세요.