Today, we have a special guest, MC Jeong Mi-jeong, who will share her knowledge about the ocean. The topic we are going to discuss is this: Professor, I think we need to define this a bit. How would you define it? 

Well, I would define it as a treasure map that tells us about the past and future of the sea. A treasure map, indeed! Our representative has a different take: I would define it as a challenge towards the impossible. 

I can feel the weight of that statement. If I were to express it in one sentence, I would say that without this, South Korea could face disaster. Without this, South Korea could be in trouble. 

In fact, the three of you have provided really insightful definitions. What I think is that this represents the secrets of the vast and deep sea, and it serves as a compass for the ocean. 

So, today’s topic is Busan Viewed Through the Maritime Road. First, let’s delve into this discussion.

Before we start, I think it would be good to take a look at the nautical chart. I have prepared some charts for you. What you are currently looking at is the nautical chart of Busan Port, specifically the chart of the third harbor. We have prepared a total of four charts. From my perspective, while it is somewhat similar to a general map, there are many differences that can be observed. 

Could you explain what a nautical chart is and what kind of information it contains? A general map is commonly used by the public to understand the terrain and geography. In contrast, a nautical chart is a specialized map used by harbor operators and ship navigators to enter ports, which includes traffic rules and navigation regulations. 

It would be helpful to understand this distinction. When we drive, we look at a map that clearly shows the exact routes we need to take. However, I personally find nautical charts quite challenging to interpret. How do navigators manage to operate using these charts? What about the water depth?

It is very important that if there are no traffic rules at sea, a lot of ships could have many accidents in busy areas like this one. Therefore, traffic rules at sea serve as a beacon, much like a lighthouse. For example, it is advised to navigate by going around to the starboard side. These rules, which are established internationally, help ensure safe navigation without collisions. 

Is the red lighthouse on the right? The white lighthouse has a bit of an explanation regarding the rules for left and right. There are actually two classifications internationally, and these can change depending on the area. Therefore, navigators should confirm the specific rules for that area and comply with the navigation regulations, as circumstances can vary. For instance, the driving directions differ between our country and Japan.

It's exactly like that; it's somewhat different in each country. I learned something new. I used to think that white lighthouses were pretty and red lighthouses were not, but that's not the case. If we think about it, the maps are always being upgraded in terms of directions and other aspects as the years change. Is there something similar with lighthouses? As you can see, the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries is updating navigational charts, and there are indeed changes in land facilities over time. There are also changes happening at sea; for example, depths can change. I believe that our country has quite advanced technology in this area. So, what level is our country at now? I can confidently say that internationally, we are...

There are several famous countries that have dominated the maritime map-making field, and one prominent example is the United Kingdom. The UK still maintains a strong position in the international maritime map market, but our country has reached a level where we are exchanging technology on equal terms with the UK. In terms of map-making capabilities, we are indeed in an excellent position. If we say that our country is at the highest global level, that means the official here is a world-class expert, right? Well, I wouldn't say that myself; it’s more about the institution. So, shall we continue our discussion while looking at the maps? What are the years of the maps in front of us? They range sequentially from 1961 to the 1990s. This one here is the oldest map produced by our institution, depicting Busan Port. It reflects the era at that time, and since the past has been advanced and standardized, some elements are not marked clearly.

At that time, there were no digital devices, so navigation was done on paper, making it essential to recognize landforms and buildings to determine one’s location. Thus, the land was marked in great detail. However, I’m curious, isn’t it possible to establish a port in any place with a body of water, not just Busan? The location conditions of a port are very important. While there are several other ports in our country, the development of Busan as a port can largely be attributed to its natural conditions. For instance, Yeongdo, which is visible right below, acts as a natural breakwater, protecting vessels from waves when they enter. Even though Busan Port is located inland, it has an excellent natural position that allows large vessels to dock comfortably.

Because of this, it was fortunate for Busan to operate as a very significant international hub. It is truly in an optimal location. Now, we can also look at how Busan Port has changed through the maps. Generally, people consider the opening of Busan as a port to be around 1876. However, if we expand our perspective a bit more, we should go back to the early 15th century, specifically to 1907. This was during the 7th year of King Taejong's reign in the Joseon Dynasty when ports were opened. The ports referred to are Busan Port and the two ports of Jinhae. The reason these two ports were opened was as a means for the state to control foreign merchants, encouraging them to come, trade, and communicate with us. Since then, Busan Port has never closed its doors for over 660 years. In a way, this is quite remarkable.

부산은 긴 역사를 가지고 있으며, 부산포는 중요한 역할을 해왔습니다. 우리가 원도심이라고 부르는 지역이 있지만, 엄밀히 말하면 진짜 원도심은 동네 쪽입니다. 부산포는 660년 동안 존재했지만, 그동안 크게 중요하게 여겨지지 않았습니다. 그러나 일본 사람들이 들어오면서 근대에 이곳이 새로운 신도심이 되었습니다. 한국은 단순히 바다와 관계된 것이 아니라 물류, 수산업뿐만 아니라 경제, 문화, 그리고 일반 시민들의 삶까지 모든 것이 바다의 역사와 연결되어 있습니다. 해도를 통해 과거를 볼 수 있고, 현재와 함께 공존할 수 있습니다. 그러면 부산항이 발전해온 배경에 대해 교수님과 대표님께서 추가적으로 설명해 주시기 바랍니다.

During the Joseon Dynasty, from the 15th century to the 19th century, there were no abilities to freely navigate the seas. As a result, operations were limited to small-scale ports. However, with the advent of modern technology and the invasion of Korea by Japan, significant changes began to occur in Busan Port. When we look at Busan Port, we see that there are many mountains surrounding the sea. This means that there is little usable land. Therefore, starting in 1902, land reclamation began. Under Japanese rule, there were seven rounds of reclamation, and even after liberation, we conducted about ten rounds of reclamation ourselves, leading to the current state of Busan Port. It is not an exaggeration to say that the history of Busan Port is the history of reclamation. When we refer to Busan as a city of the sea, it can be understood simply as having a lot of water, but it is also a city that embraced everything. The term to embrace is also linked to the sea in its etymology.

During the Korean War, refugees from all over the country came to Busan. Busan embraced and welcomed them. But if you ask where these people lived, they reclaimed land that was previously uninhabited and even moved up into the mountains. If you look around the Busan Port area, you'll see that new villages actually formed. For example, communities like Gam Village were established on the mountain. In the past, there were places where Japanese people had used as cemeteries, and since there was nowhere else to live, they built homes right on top of the gravestones. This might seem very scary by today's standards, but at that time, there was no room for such considerations. That was the last village, and they said that one could not live on graves, but in the end, when there was truly no land left, a refugee village was created even there. This became what we now know as Am-dong and Beongseong.

The place we now call a village is indeed such a village. I think this is a very important characteristic of the city of Busan, especially as a city by the sea. So, the evacuation villages were particularly built around the hills near the coast. The reason is that although these people came to evacuate, they had a strong desire to return to their hometown someday. As a result, they couldn't stray far from the transportation routes they arrived on. Therefore, they stayed close to areas like Yeonmu-dong and the first pier, and Busan Station was right in the square. They always kept their evacuation routes in mind, hoping that once the war ended or the situation changed, they could return home immediately. It wasn't an easy time like today, where communication through mobile phones is simple; going far away was difficult.

As time goes by, it becomes increasingly unsettling. Despite being a small area, people have struggled to establish their villages around the Han River. Hearing such words from the professor makes me feel a bit heartbroken as the spirit of the community seems to be fading away. Earlier, the representative mentioned various villages, such as the Beongseong Village and Gamcheon Culture Village, which are famous for their murals and attract many tourists. One characteristic of the seaside areas is the belief in shamanism; there are many fortune-telling houses. The reason for this is that the sea is truly unpredictable and ever-changing, so those who venture to the seaside often relied on mystical powers. Especially during the Korean War, everyone...

Under the Yeongdo Bridge, there are thoughts about whether my parents are still alive and other related matters. In fact, this is somewhat connected to Gamcheon Culture Village, which was originally a community formed by religious people gathering together. One of the very important spirits of religion is to embrace everyone, and as people who had no food or were struggling came together, a village was formed. This village showcases a very unique culture, and over time, through murals and other developments, it has transformed into a tourist destination, carrying a long history. There are many stories to tell, and I know of a neighborhood called Kkangkkang, which has a very cute and unique name. I'm curious about the origins of this village. When people think of Busan, they tend to...

While there are thoughts about being macho and masculine, the reality is that the ones who have supported Busan are the women. However, we know about the Jagalchi women, but not much about the Kkangkkang women. The Kkangkkang women are those who go out on boats and, while they are out at sea, collect clams and barnacles. Before the next voyage, the boats need to be repaired, and all of this work was done by these women. Back then, the equipment wasn't as good as it is now, and it was very dangerous. They would climb up on the ships and hit the hulls with hammers, creating a sound that echoed throughout the village. That's why it's called Kkangkkang Village, and the women who did that work are referred to as Kkangkkang women. As our earlier speaker mentioned, without the sun...

You mentioned that our country has no way to survive. Among the four major industries that have significantly contributed to the growth of Korea, the shipbuilding industry and the marine industry can be considered at the top. What enabled these industries to thrive were the hardworking women, often referred to as kkangkkangi ajumma. That's what I think. Earlier, the professor briefly mentioned the shipbuilding business, and I believe we cannot overlook the history of shipbuilding in Busan. That's right. The first shipbuilding industry began in 1887 when a Japanese man, Tanaka, established a shipyard in the area near Iii village. The name of the shipyard is Tanaka Shipyard. However, the actual beginning of shipbuilding, as we understand it today, started in the 1930s when the Han Jin Heavy Industries shipyard was established in Yeongdo. To put it simply, the shipbuilding industry started as early as the late 19th century, but the full-fledged modern shipbuilding industry began...

In the 1930s, we generally saw the transition from wooden boats to iron boats, leading to the decline of small wooden boat manufacturing shipyards, which then transformed into repair shipyards. The shipbuilding industry in Korea is now one of the best in the world and represents a key industry for the country. It is a fact that all started with wooden boats in Yeongdo, and I think that is a historical fact we can take great pride in. For me, when I think of Yeongdo, the first thing that comes to mind is Yeongdo Bridge. It carries a lot of emotions and has many episodes associated with it. I believe we have many stories to hear about it, so we sometimes refer to it as the Yeongdo debate. However, I think Yeongdo Bridge is probably the most familiar bridge in the country. The reason this bridge was built is somewhat unfortunate.

This is also connected to the war. The Japanese Empire decided to use Yeongdo as a supply base, and for that, it needed to be easily connected to the mainland. So, they planned to build a bridge from Yeongdo to the mainland. Initially, the bridge was not designed as a drawbridge; it was just a regular bridge. However, in the 1920s, when Japan dominated the fishing industry at Busan Port, the fishing industry operators protested. They argued that the bridge was too low for their boats to pass under. Because of this, the boats had to take a longer route, which consumed more fuel and made maintenance more difficult. Therefore, the bridge was deemed essential, and due to the geographical structure, it couldn't be raised any higher. So, they opted for a drawbridge design. In fact, there were no drawbridges like this in Japan at the time; cutting-edge technology was fully mobilized to create it.

Now, this bridge is built at a very high price. I heard it was raised six times a day. At that time, it was quite a landmark facility, and when the bridge was raised, it was a significant event. We talked about how there seems to be a development of industries in Busan, particularly in the food industry. The original industry in Busan, which is known as the primary industry, includes shipbuilding and, of course, fisheries. Manufacturing can also be considered, and the reason manufacturing is possible is that raw materials are imported through the port. So, the manufacturing industry processes these imported raw materials. It has been a representative hub of manufacturing in the country, especially with the imports of raw wood, sugarcane, and flour, which are then transformed into sugar, flour, and other products.

Now, the shoe industry is experiencing a revival, and places like Busan were at the center of it. The factories are currently concentrated in Seomyeon, but it all began because of the sea. Everything moved through the sea, and raw materials were supplied via it. I lived in Gwangalli when I was young, and there were cultural aspects that were possible because of the beach there. For example, have you heard of karaoke? Yes, kara is a Japanese word, and in Chinese characters, it means empty or fake. So, when people say, Just treat it as 'kara', I'm not sure if that's appropriate, but back then, there was karaoke and orchestras. So, karaoke means fake orchestra. This concept first came to Busan through Japan, and later, independent rooms for singing emerged.

This is how it happens. Another point is that before international travel became autonomous, we couldn't just go abroad freely. However, in cities with oceans, there was a longing for foreign countries, a fascination with foreign cultures. Back then, at Haeundae Beach, NHK was broadcasted. So, when we turned on the TV at home, we could catch it. The Japanese broadcasts showed American culture, European culture, and so on. The fashion, such as hairstyles, was a tremendous shock. Watching that, high school students in Busan, including myself, would try to imitate it. We would take the jeans we had, wash them out, and follow what we saw on NHK. After about six months, we would go to places like Apgujeong in Seoul. This is actually the background for the emergence of the Orange Generation and Generation X. During that period, our cultural archetypes or...

Many trends and styles have originated in Busan and spread across the country. When we first started, we began with just a photo of a map of Busan Port, but as we've talked, it has diversified tremendously. We're hearing many hidden stories from Busan in various fields. How did you feel when you listened to these stories, Mr. Jumu-won? While we certainly look at other regions a lot during the production, the area around Busan Port has the most variety. Hearing these hidden stories within that area has been incredibly beneficial and fascinating. It’s possible because of the port's existence, and that foundation is important. We're talking so engrossingly that I almost lose track of time. When I was very young, I used to travel with my dad, and we would spread out a map while he drove. But at some point...

Without navigation, driving is quite difficult. I think there must be navigation on the ship as well. Even if there is navigation, why would we need charts? That's a really good question, and I'm genuinely curious about it. In fact, I hear this kind of question quite often, and while it might seem like a lighthearted question, the term navigation itself actually comes from the sea. It means to navigate, so it naturally performs the functions we typically think of in navigation. Instead of traditional paper charts, we now use digital navigation tools. When you occasionally speak, it seems like you're very humble, but I can sense a pride in being one of the world's top experts. Everything originates from the sea, and all the terminology we use comes from there. When we talk about courses, I can see a smile on your face.

Now we have been able to understand that the origin comes from the sea. As we discussed earlier, it is true that with the changes in technology, methods of map-making and various other aspects have changed significantly. In the future, it might be possible to create maps without having to go out on a boat, using drones or satellites to contribute to this process. Remote sensing technology that utilizes satellites and observation or surveying technology using unmanned drones has already been implemented by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, so we can say that it is being utilized to some extent in the field. In fact, we are moving a step further into autonomous navigation. Just as electric vehicles are said to drive themselves, ships are also progressing in this area. While land has roads for autonomous navigation, the sea is, in fact, quite different.

Although this notation has been made, there are no markings on-site. Therefore, it is important to digitize the spatial information well and train it on the vessels, which is a part of advanced technology development. Just like how airplanes move, that's right. If China thinks about it, the maps we have been looking at are from the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and up to 2020. Looking ahead, what kind of developments do you think will occur in the future? If we talk specifically about Busan Port, even in just 10 years, the land facilities and such will undergo significant changes. In fact, while predictions may be difficult, it is clear that the facilities will have changed considerably, but their importance will remain the same. This is because, considering the natural and man-made infrastructures built like a fortress, it is already in a very advantageous position for global trade.

Because of this, I think the future will be very important. Right now, there's a lot happening with the new construction, and North Korea is also involved in redevelopment. Busan is changing significantly, so I think we need to work hard on this. By the way, do you also go on the boat? When conducting surveys, various episodes tend to occur. Typically, when we conduct surveys over a vast depth range, instead of moving in a straight line like a regular vessel would, we tend to repeat the same area continuously. Because of this, the VTS (Vessel Traffic Service) or nearby fishing boats often think that our ship is behaving strangely. I can understand their perspective; it might seem odd. In the past, this could have led to being reported as a spy. There are instances of mistaken reports because the movements seem too unusual.

You might think it's a lie, so I understand if you have a lot of doubts. Today, through the lens of Haeundae, how did you find Busan? Honestly, at first, I didn't know much about Haeundae, and I was unsure what to say about something I didn't understand. However, I have always loved the city of Busan, and the more I learn about it, especially as a city with a sea, the more I realize that there are countless opportunities. My affection for this city seems to grow continuously. Through today's gathering, I feel that I am living in a truly wonderful city and that I want to do more in this city. While discussing today, I ended up talking about things I never expected to discuss. We need to take good care of the diversity that the sea encompasses and make efforts to ensure that our next generations can also use and enjoy the sea of Busan that we have now.

이제는 좀 했으면 좋겠다는 생각이 더 강하게 듭니다. 해도 볼 때 항상 그 감정 없이 무미건조하게 보고 있어서, 다양한 주제를 가지고 얘기하니까 정말 이야기 거리도 많고, 재밌는 얘기도 많고, 몰랐던 이야기도 너무 많아서 정말 유익한 시간이었습니다. 알아두면 쓸모 있는 해양에 관한 자학 지식, 알쓸 해자. 저희는 아직까지 풀지 못한 더 다양한 이야기가 많은데요. 혹시 다음 편이 궁금하시다면 좋아요, 구독, 그리고 많은 응원 부탁드립니다. 자, 오늘 이렇게 정말 재미있고 또 흥미로운 바다 이야기를 들려주신 세 분께 감사 인사드리면서 저희는 이 시간을 마치겠습니다. 감사합니다.

[알쓸海잡] "부산에 이런 비밀이 있었다고?" 해도로 바라본 부산! 그 안에 숨겨진 이야기

해양생활, 해양지식 및 해양안전 등에 필요한 해양정보의 바다!