Using various fatty acids and various ceramides can help strengthen skin barriers. Adding moisturizers to the process will make the skin barrier stronger and healthier. I’m sure it will be helpful to check the types of fatty acids or oils rich in fatty acids

when picking cosmetics. Hello. This is Dr. Hudson Kim, your skin boss and a Board-certified Dermatologist from South Korea. I told you that three components of the skin barrier make up lipids: ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

Let’s focus on fatty acids. In a previous video, I mentioned that aging is not at a constant speed. The three moments are the mid-30s, mid-60s, and 80s. It begins pretty quickly in the mid-30s.

At that time, ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acids, which make up the skin barrier, decreased rapidly. So the components that make up the skin barrier are bound to weaken. I always tell you that there are two essential things about moisturizing.

The two things are pulling the moisture and keeping it from evaporating. It’s the humectant that is responsible for pulling. For cosmetics, occlusive factors prevent natural moisturizers from evaporating. For skin barriers, the lipid layer is responsible for preventing natural moisturizers from evaporating.

In cosmetics, the oil forms a membrane. In that oil, various fatty acids also include membranes within. The richer the fatty acids are, the stronger the barriers become. It also plays an essential role in making lipids such as ceramide. With this, you can confirm that fatty acids can strengthen the lipid layer.

Fat has a chemical structure that hates water, and acid is attached to the end of a fat molecule called carboxylic acid. Just think of a lollipop. The stick part of the lollipop is fat, and the candy part is the acid.

When saturated fats are created, they are composed of carbon and hydrogen. This is called a hydrocarbon structure. A saturated state in which carbon in this hydrocarbon structure is filled with hydrogen and has nothing more to react with is called ‘saturated fatty acid.’

Among the hydrocarbon structures, unsaturated fatty acids are not full of hydrogen and have some room. They can also respond to external factors. Unsaturated fatty acids, chemically speaking, are in double or triple bonds. Think of saturated fatty acid as the normal stick on the lollipop,

and think of unsaturated fatty acid as a bent stick. When checking for components in cosmetics, you can’t find fatty acids under the labels. This is because fatty acids are under many different names depending on their stick length or carbon chain length. Unless you remember every single different name, it will be difficult to tell if they are fatty acids or not.

The most widely known fatty acids are myristic acid with 14 carbons, lauric acid with 12 carbons, palmitic acid with 16 carbons, and stearic acid with 18 carbons. Confusing, right?

This is where I come in to make this easy. It is essential to have various types of fatty acids and an evenly divided ratio between saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. A saturated fatty acid with 18 carbons is called stearic acid.

If one of them turns unsaturated with a double bond, you can write C for carbon, 18 for the number of carbons, and 0 for the number of unsaturations. This is the stearic acid form. However, if the one double bond is in the unsaturated fat form, it becomes the oleic acid (C18:1).

If there are two double bonds in the backbone of 18 carbons, it is called linoleic acid (C18:2). If there are three double bonds, it is called linolenic acid or α-linolenic acid (C18:3).

The word fatty acid has 'acid' at the end, right? The acid part is essential because the skin is slightly acidic in terms of pH. The skin is slightly acidic because it has fatty acids on the skin barrier, which reduces the pH value. Additionally, fatty acids play an essential role in skin barriers.

If a lollipop is composed of saturated fatty acids, it should be dense in three-dimensional arrangements. Because the stick is firm, it will not affect the surroundings that much. For this reason, when the skin barrier collapses, while the flexibility decreases, and the more saturated fatty acids there are, the more solid it tends to become.

A few minutes ago, I said that unsaturated fatty acids have folded what looks like the lollipop's stick. Well, what do you think will happen when the fold spins around? Because it is bent while spinning, it becomes harder for it to be attached, and the gap widens.

Then the flexibility increases. But if it contains too much unsaturated fatty acid, the skin barrier may weaken. Saturated and unsaturated fatty acids must be appropriately placed depending on the environment to magnify the environment's characteristics. Make what is soft softer and make sturdy more sturdy.

Among the oil components, there is an oil containing many of these fatty acids. They can be found in moringa oil, canola oil, rosemary oil, barley oil, rosehip oil, and red ginseng oil. There are data that red ginseng oil contains the most fatty acids that make up the skin barrier.

Using this oil efficiently has confirmed its importance for skin barrier restoration. Using various fatty acids and various ceramides can help strengthen skin barriers. Adding moisturizers to the process will make the skin barrier stronger and healthier. I'm sure it will be helpful to check the types of fatty acids or oils rich in fatty acids

when picking cosmetics. Still, the different types of fatty acids are distributed in various ways and help for diversity in skin barriers and ceramide synthesis. Also, please remember that it is essential to maintain weak acidity because the pH level decreases depending on the distribution of fatty acids on the skin.

늙지 않는 피부장벽의 비결 | 피부노화막는 페이스오일 활용법!

대한민국 2% 피부과 전문의 김홍석!
Dermatologist Dr.Hongseok Kim

피부 전문가는 정말 많다.
하지만 '피부과 전문의' 전문가는 흔치 않다는 사실을 아는 사람은 많지 않다!
피부과전문의로서 화장품 영역에서 크게 인정받고 있으며
화장품, 레이저, 피부 문제 등 피부에 관한 모든 것을 알려주는
피・알・남 - 피부 알려주는 남자 김홍석 입니다.

[약력]
보스피부과 대표원장
대한피부과의사회 교육이사
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[저서]
화장품상담학

화장품 강연 문의 : drhong3@gmail.com

Dr.DTS A Dermatologist Talks about the SKIN

피부 장벽 강화를 위한 지방산과 세라마이드의 중요성

다양한 지방산과 세라마이드를 사용하면 피부 장벽이 강화됩니다.

보습제를 추가하면 피부 장벽 건강을 더욱 강화할 수 있습니다.

피부 장벽 지질은 세라마이드, 콜레스테롤, 지방산으로 구성됩니다.

피부 장벽 성분은 30대 중반에 급격히 감소하여 장벽이 약해집니다.

보습은 수분을 끌어당기고 증발을 막는 역할을 하며, 지질은 증발을 방지합니다.

지방산 구조와 기능에 대한 이해

풍부한 지방산 성분이 피부 장벽과 세라마이드 생성을 강화합니다.

지방산은 막대 사탕과 같은 지방 분자와 카르복실산(사탕)으로 구성되어 있습니다.

포화 지방산은 수소로 채워진 탄화수소 구조를 가지고 있습니다.

불포화 지방산은 이중 또는 삼중 결합을 가지고 있어 구부러진 구조로 되어 있습니다.

지방산은 화장품 라벨에 다양한 이름으로 나열되어 있어 식별이 어렵습니다.

지방산의 예로는 미리스트산, 라우르산, 팔미트산, 스테아르산이 있습니다.

포화 지방산과 불포화 지방산의 균형 잡힌 비율은 매우 중요합니다.

지방산은 탄소 사슬 길이와 이중 결합의 수(예: 올레산, 리놀레산, 리놀렌산)에 따라 분류됩니다.

지방산의 '산' 부분은 피부의 약산성 pH를 유지하는 데 기여합니다.

포화 지방산과 불포화 지방산이 피부 장벽에 미치는 영향

포화 지방산은 피부 장벽을 촘촘하고 덜 유연하게 만듭니다.

불포화 지방산은 유연성을 높여주지만 과도할 경우 장벽을 약화시킬 수 있습니다.

최적의 피부 장벽 기능을 위해서는 포화 지방산과 불포화 지방산의 균형이 필요합니다.

다양한 오일(예: 모링가, 카놀라유, 홍삼)에는 유익한 지방산이 함유되어 있습니다.

보습제와 함께 다양한 지방산과 세라마이드를 사용하면 피부 장벽을 강화할 수 있습니다.

pH 조절에서 지방산의 역할로 인해 약산성 유지가 필수적입니다.