Bread has been one of the most important sources of calories and nutrients across cultures for millennia. Today, it's a $200 billion industry around the world. Here in America, ultra-processed white bread is the norm, but this is what bread used to look like. It was typically made with just three ingredients: flour, water, and yeast. But nowadays, your average loaf of white bread can easily contain up to 20 ingredients, including salt, sugar, fats, and oils, a cocktail of chemicals like dough conditioners, ascorbic acid, bleach, and more. And somehow this bread is a lot less nutritious than this. So how does a food that has been such a staple change so much? And what kind of impact does that have on our bodies? I'm Mia de Graaf. I'm a health editor at Business Insider. The first traces that archeologists have ever found of bread are these crumbs that are 14,000 years old.

that they found from a neolithic site in Jordan. These crumbs seem to have been made from a rudimentary flatbread that was sort of a combination of water and ground-up grains, kind of the ancestors of modern-day cereals. Egyptians discovered yeast, likely by accident. But the way Egyptians were making bread was what we would describe today as a sourdough. And that was the kind of bread that we were making then for centuries. So we could see from the Egyptians that bread making could proliferate an entire society and sustain an entire community. Pyramid builders were paid with bread. People in higher-status positions were people who were overseeing the production of bread. That only develops further. By the time you get to 150 BC in the Roman Empire, bread-making, by then, was a really prestigious career. So how did bread come to the US? Rumor has it that when Christopher Columbus journeyed to the new world,

he brought a Crock-Pot of sourdough starter with him. And once we started mass-producing wheat across the US, bread as a business and as a culture really kicked off. In the 1880s, we saw the industrialization of bread, and that kicked off with mechanically milled flour. These mills would remove the germ of the flour. It contains so many nutrients. It's got proteins, oils, omega-3s, all of that good stuff. But it makes it quite unruly in a bake. They remove the bran, remove the germ of the flour, and completely pulverize the flour so that it is as fine as it can possibly be. Suddenly, you don't have that volatile element that could be a margin for error in your business. You can just scale this right up and make bread that seems to be very consistent every time. So that's what we've seen with all these mills,

adding different kinds of chemicals and adding different kinds of ingredients. How could we make something that is shelf-stable, continuously fluffy, and just delicious at all times? In the late 1800s, we invented commercial yeast. This is a kind of dried yeast that can last way longer than fresh yeast. Fresh yeast, like a sourdough starter or a balm, you've got to treat it, you've got to feed it. It's not the kind of thing that you could use from mass production so easily. But a commercial yeast, it's dehydrated in such a way that it could last for weeks and weeks and weeks. The mass-produced white bread or the fluffy kind of Wonder Bread that we have today was invented in the early 1900s. But it wasn't sliced. It was just this big block of fluffy, white dough. In the early 1900s, an engineer called Otto Rohwedder

had an idea that you could make one single machine that slices and packages bread all at the same time. It took him about a decade to finally finish his prototype. We get to 1928 when he debuted his invention at a fair in Missouri. And it was a huge hit. People's minds were blown. And within two years, the Continental Baking Company, which is the maker of Wonder Bread, was using it. I know mine eat their lunch now. I pack their favorite sandwiches on their favorite bread, Wonder. Kids eat it up. This Wonder Bread, it's already got a ton of things in it that make it shelf-stable. Add the packaging, it's going to last you for a week or more or, you know, maybe even longer. It was a huge game changer in American culture. The war was starting. The economy is really hard up. You have this thing that's going to last you for a very long time.

It actually created a supermarket culture. And really, decades later, we can see it created this huge shift in how we shop and eat and live in this country. By 1930, mass-produced loaves made up 30% of the average American's diet, which was a higher proportion than any other food. But scientists started to see the results of eating this bread that had all of the nutrients removed from it. Around the start of the Second World War, we started to see people developing diseases with quite worrying symptoms. There are diseases like pellagra, which has symptoms of dementia, or beriberi, which has symptoms of paralysis or losing the feeling in your hands and feet. People also had rickets, which is the weakening of bones, iron deficiency, birth defects. In response, the US government collaborated with manufacturing companies, including the Wonder Bread manufacturer, Continental Baking Company, to produce and promote these more fortified versions of Wonder Bread.

Commercial: That's why you can help yourself grow bigger and stronger eight ways with Wonder Bread. I mean, grow bigger and stronger eight ways. While this didn't make ultra-processed white bread as healthy as a whole grain, it did prevent people from developing diseases, which is capitalism at its finest. Commercial: Each delicious slice of Wonder Bread supplies protein for muscle, minerals for strong bones and teeth, carbohydrates for energy, vitamins for nerves, all vital elements for growing minds and bodies. The point of ultra-processed bread is really a business opportunity. It's something that was scalable. It's developed for convenience. So what are the ingredients in a typical loaf of ultra-processed bread? So first we have tartaric acid, also known as DATEM. This is an emulsifier which is used to make bread smoother or fluffier and to stop ingredients from separating. Emulsifiers are generally believed

to be safe in small quantities. But gut-health experts worry that the combination of water and oil that's used to make this may wear down the gut lining in a way that can make you susceptible to digestive issues and digestive diseases. Next, we have corn syrup. This is a really common ingredient in ultra-processed foods, including bread. It's super sweet. It can be used to mask the more chemical flavors of an ultra-processed food after it's been broken down and had so many things added to it to keep it shelf-stable. One of the health effects of corn syrup is that it's a high-fructose type of sweetener, and it means that your liver has to work harder to break it down than, say, glucose. That can put you at risk of fatty liver disease as well as the risks of just consuming a lot of sugar. If you consume a lot of sugar, you're at a higher risk of diabetes,

inflammation, heart disease, obesity, and all of the classic things that are associated with a high-sugar diet. Another common ingredient used is acetic acid. This is an antimicrobial that's used to prevent mold from growing or to prevent the bread from going off or going stale quicker. It's a vinegar that can be used in other types of food production. Acetic acid is not dangerous to human health in the amounts that are used in store-bought bread. But it is part of this perfect storm of chemicals that are used to make bread last way longer than it naturally would. Then we have calcium carbonate. This is a dough conditioner which is used to improve texture and shelf life of ultra-processed bread. So on its own, calcium carbonate is not that bad for you. And in fact, it can be good for you. The issue with calcium carbonate in ultra-processed bread is that it's making something inherently unhealthy quite enticing.

Another common sweetener in ultra-processed bread is molasses. This is something which is quite popular with home bakers, too. It's a sweetener that has a low glycemic index. So, in theory, it would be healthier for you than refined sugar. It can still spike your blood sugar, especially if it's used in an ultra-processed bread that you're naturally going to eat a lot of. Ultra-processed food drives people to eat more of it. Another ingredient that you will see on basically every label of store-bought bread is ascorbic acid. This is a type of vitamin C, which sounds great. The issue with ascorbic acid is that it's used in the manufacturing process as a flour treatment to fortify the dough against a rather aggressive manufacturing process. So, it means that we can toss this dough around and slam it against machines and pulverize it in a way that's quite unnatural.

unless you have all of these ingredients inserted into it. A common preservative used in store-bought bread is L-cysteine hydrochloride, which is derived from duck feathers or human hair. It's an amino acid that is used to prolong shelf life and also enhance the flavor of processed foods. The FDA says that this is actually safe for human health, but it is widely regarded as just gross. You also have bleach, which is added to the bread to make it look whiter. So, this can be done by adding chlorine dioxide gas to the flour before it reaches the manufacturing plant. We also have azodicarbonamide, which is used as a bleach and as a foam expander to give bread a fluffier feel. This is an ingredient that's also used in vinyl flooring and yoga mats to give it a squishy feel. The FDA says that it's safe to use in small amounts, but the EU and Australia and other countries disagree.

Azodicarbonamide has been banned as a food additive for years due to concerns that a byproduct can be cancerous. Of course, you have preservatives to prolong shelf life, so that could be calcium propionate. Fats are used in a store-bought loaf for volume and fluffiness and shelf stability. Look on your label for something like mono- or diglycerides. That's made from soybeans and other oils to give it that kind of fluffiness and also to help it last a little longer. Let's take a look at these breads. First, we have Wonder Bread. Iconic packaging. So this, even holding it, it is so extremely fluffy. I can't ignore that fact. And this ingredient list is huge. The main ingredient in this is unbleached enriched flour. The second highest proportion ingredient is water. Then we have sugar, yeast. So we then have a very long list of micro-ingredients, let's say.

Calcium carbonate, wheat gluten, soybean oil, salt, dough conditioners, sodium, stearoyl lactylate. I don't know if I got that. Calcium, stearoyl, monoglycerides, mono and diglycerides, calcium peroxide, calcium iodate, vinegar, citric acid, chol ... what? Cholecalciferol. That sounds like a name in Game of Thrones. Soy lecithin, calcium propionate, and that's it. Wow, that was a journey. OK, now we have Nature's Own 100% whole wheat, and this has 13 grams of whole grain per slice. Heart-healthy. Whole wheat. This is great. This is something that I would look for in a store. You want to see whole wheat or whole grain. But let's see what's on the label. So we have whole wheat flour.

That's the first ingredient, and that's great. We have distilled monoglycerides. So that's a fat that's used in the process to create volume and bounciness and fluffiness to your bread. It's not necessarily bad for you in small amounts, and this is less than 2%. You know, it's a fat that can impact your cholesterol levels or inflammation in your body. Pepperidge Farm's farmhouse multigrain bread. So first off the bat, multigrain. This is something that I try to avoid, I would say. If you're buying store-bought bread, none of it's going to be that good for you. But multigrain is not in the same league as whole grain or whole wheat. Whole grain and whole wheat, they have the entire kernel of the original wheat intact. Multigrain, this just tells you that it is made from loads of different kinds of flour. It's not telling you that it's necessarily

a very healthy type of bread. So that's a bit of a red flag for me. No high-fructose corn syrup, that's nice. So in theory, it's signaling that this is a healthy bread. Let's look at the label. OK, immediate red flag. This has, per slice, 5 grams of sugar. That is really high. That's double the amount of sugar in a slice of Wonder Bread. The ingredients here, we have enriched wheat flour. It's nice that it has oats in it, though in very small proportion. And this is extremely high in sugar for one slice of bread. According to the USDA, your daily intake of total sugars, including from fruit or coffee or tea in very minuscule amounts, shouldn't exceed 50 grams, which is 12 teaspoons. So let's look at how many teaspoons are in this loaf of bread. One. Oh my god, we're halfway through. Nine. Ten. Eleven.

Twelve. So that's the total daily intake that anyone should have from anything. Thirteen. Fourteen. Fifteen. Wow, that is how much sugar is in this. These have little pieces of oats on them. They look very grainy and healthy. But I can feel from the squishiness and even just see from the bounciness of the dough, this is definitely an ultra-processed slice of bread. And I can see from the ingredients list that there is stuff in there that is not what I would be going for for a nutritious lunch. So this is how much sugar is in two slices of this bread. And it doesn't look like a lot. It's not a lot. But if you're buying this because you expect it to be healthy, you probably don't expect to be having more than a spoonful of sugar with every slice that you eat. Then, we have Arnold stone-ground. Made with 100% whole grain,

zero grams trans fat, good source of fiber, and it has a big love heart that says, heart healthy, which is very sweet. Let's look at the label. The main ingredient is stone-ground whole wheat flour, which is indeed very good for you. So yes, there are elements in this that do make this more heart-healthy than some of the other breads in the store. But it does contain those telltale chemicals which show you that this is something that is not something that you could make at home. If ultra-processed bread is a mainstay of your diet, it's going to put you at risk for a bunch of kind of serious health issues. So all of the nutrients are essentially predigested. It creates a cascading effect that can dramatically increase inflammation in your body. The lack of fiber really dries up your risk of digestive issues, including something like constipation. Take, for example, the fact that when

ultra-processed white bread was first marketed to Americans. One of the benefits was that you're not going to need the toilet as often as people who are eating whole wheat bread. So, it goes to show that whole wheat bread quite clearly keeps you regular, and white bread does not. The US government played a huge role in constructing the kind of bread manufacturing that we have today. It all started in the Great Depression when the US government provided subsidies for farms during a quite tricky time for the economy and also to prevent overproduction of certain things. Announcer: Uncle Sam is rewarding the Midwest farmers who have done their part in curbing corn and hog production to raise prices. At Knoxville, Iowa, the first federal checks are distributed as loans to the farmers. That was really the beginning of what's now known as the farm bill. But it essentially provides subsidies for major farms that are mass-producing homogenous kinds of wheat that can go to big manufacturing plants.

and make bread that will serve the entire country. The farm bill is not subsidizing smaller farms that are providing grain for local bakers and something that's maybe a slightly more diverse style of grain. So they're not able to reduce the cost of their loaves in the same way that ultra-processed manufactured loaves can. The cost of an ultra-processed white loaf is around $2 or under $2. But that's at the lower end of the scale of bread costs in the US. If you're looking for something more artisanal, you're looking for like a sourdough or something from a homemade bakery. Those can get very expensive, up to, say, $12. Americans are consuming way less bread than they were before because of a wave of health-conscious attitudes and the rise of low-carb diets. There was a huge shift towards low-carb in the '80s and '90s that had a really, really dramatic effect

on our entire bread-eating culture. In the year 2000, the average American was eating about 138 pounds of grains per year, which includes bread. By 2014, that dropped to an average of 122 pounds per year. It doesn't sound like a huge drop, but it's pretty significant in just a decade. Still, the business hasn't gone away, and it has, in fact, grown. It's now worth about $26 billion. So it's thriving, and it's definitely something that's still a part of our culture. But how we're choosing to consume it has shifted, and brands have been racing to catch up with that. So what should you look for on a label when you're trying to buy healthy bread? No. 1, look for non-refined flour. You're looking for something that hasn't had all of the goodness milled out of it. Look for low added sugar or ideally no added sugar, no trans fats.

Trans fats are incredibly bad for you and increase your risk of heart disease. Ideally, few additives. Just the nature of the manufacturing process means that you need certain additives just simply to make it go through the machines. But as few additives as you can have, the better. Be aware, and this kind of rings true for all packaged food, that there are certain bogus words and terms like healthy or made with real wheat. Those aren't regulated terms. So if a label has that on it, you can just disregard it. It doesn't mean anything. Make sure whole grain is listed as the first or second ingredient if you're looking for a loaf that has a good amount of grain in it. If you look at the ingredients list, the first one listed is the most plentiful. Pick whole wheat or whole grain. So whole grain and whole wheat both have the whole aspect of the wheat. It has the germ, the endosperm, the bran.

the entire kernel of wheat. Multigrain does not need to have all those things. Look for something that contains a lot of nuts and seeds. That's just going to increase the amount of protein in it and healthy fats and healthy oils. And most importantly, look at the label and see where the flour is from or where the bread is from. So I will say one of the things that local farmers, regional farmers, local bakers, grain activists really passionately are trying to communicate to all of us that all is not lost. You can still buy a delicious, nutritious loaf of bread. So the best way that you're going to get access to something that was grown without chemicals, without sort of any all of the complexities of mass-production, is if you're going to have something that was grown near you. So look for flour that is from your state. Look for loaves that were made in your state. Get to know your local baker.

Go to your local farmers market. There are lots of people, especially farmers on private farms, who don't have the support of government money, who are really passionate about educating people about where you can get good bread. While buying bread at your local farmers market may seem like a more expensive luxury, it may actually be a worthwhile investment in the long run. It could save you money that you might have had to spend on your health. It could keep you younger for longer. And it could cut inches on your waistline without you even having to try. If you're still unsure, try baking your own bread, because that way, you'll know exactly what goes into it. But this is what bread used to look like. This is what bread used to look like. This is what bread used to look like. This reminds me of, like, being in the service industry. I used to have to, like, open a wine bottle at a table,

How Ultra-Processed Bread Took Over America | Ultra-Processed Life | Business Insider

What you want to know about business. 

Visit our homepage for the top stories of the day: https://www.businessinsider.com 
Business Insider on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/businessinsider
Business Insider on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/insiderbusiness
Business Insider on Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/businessinsider
Business Insider on Snapchat: https://www.snapchat.com/discover/Business_Insider/5319643143
Business Insider on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@businessinsider

If you have a permissions or licensing request, please connect with our partners at PARS International who will be able to provide you with an accurate quote for the overall usage rights that you’re interested in. A representative from PARS will contact you shortly after filling out this request form: https://www.parsintl.com/publications/insider/


How Ultra-Processed Bread Took Over America | Ultra-Processed Life | Business Insider

How Ultra-Processed Bread Took Over America | Ultra-Processed Life | Business Insider

Scripts