Kejek Tea: Preserving Tradition Amidst Indonesia's Declining Industry

The declining tea industry threatens Indonesia's cultural heritage and thousands of jobs, but kejek tea remains a symbol of resilience.

### The Struggle to Preserve Kejek Tea and the Nyaneut Tradition in Indonesia
* 🍵 Producing one day's worth of kejek tea requires **150 kilograms of high-quality green tea leaves** and skilled footwork, playing a vital role in the **Nyaneut tea ritual of Indonesia**.
* 🌱 However, the tea industry is in decline, with **over 56,000 acres lost in the past 19 years**, leading to job losses and threatening **cultural traditions among the Sundanese people**.
* 👩 In Cigedug village, tea harvesting is still largely manual, with pickers like Iip collecting **up to 30 kilograms of leaves daily** for producers such as Apandi Oos, who has been in the business for **over five decades**.
* 🔥 Apandi's tea factory, once part of a thriving industry in Garut, is now the **last one standing**, where he roasts the leaves to **release their natural oils** and prepares them for the **unique stepping process** that defines kejek tea.
* 📉 The tea industry has faced challenges, including a **nearly 14% decrease in plantation area** from 2001 to 2020, pushing many farmers to shift to **more profitable crops**, resulting in an **uncertain future for 300,000 workers**.
* 🛠 Lack of governmental support and access to modern agricultural practices have further diminished tea quality, making daily production **increasingly unviable** for producers like Apandi.
* 🎉 Dasep Badrussalam, a supporter of the Nyaneut tradition, believes that by **preserving this cultural practice and promoting kejek tea through festivals**, the tea industry in West Java can be revitalized.
* ☕ Despite the challenges, Apandi remains committed to continuing his tea-making legacy as long as possible, emphasizing the **importance of tradition in sustaining the community**.

Narrator: It takes 150 kilograms of the best-quality green tea leaves and some skilled footwork to produce one day's worth of kejek tea. Kejek is central to the Nyaneut tea ritual that dates back at least a century in Indonesia. But there is a problem. Over 56,000 acres have disappeared in the last 19 years as fewer people see tea-making as a viable career. The plantation decrease threatens thousands of jobs and a ritual meant to bring Indonesia's Sundanese people together. Narrator: We went to Cigedug village in West Java, Indonesia, to see how kejek tea is still standing in a struggling tea industry. Most tea leaf harvesting is still done manually by pickers like Iip. She's been gathering and selling tea leaves for the past 10 years. Narrator: Leaves from the topmost shoots are what give kejek tea its slightly bitter taste.

Iip can collect up to 30 kilograms of leaves in a day. The leaves Iip picks go to tea producers like Apandi Oos. He's been doing this work for over five decades. Narrator: In the 1970s and '80s, Apandi says his family's tea factory, Kejek Pa Oos, was one of hundreds in his district of Garut producing tea. Today, it's the last one standing. Apandi starts by sorting the leaves. Narrator: Only the best tea leaves will be roasted in this 32-year-old cauldron. He and his team have to constantly toss the leaves around to prevent them from sticking together. Narrator: Roasting helps release the leaves' natural oils. For most of Apandi's career, this step was only done over an open fire, but in 2018, he invested in a roasting machine. Narrator: Roasting makes the tea leaves more pliable.

which is essential for the next phase. Stepping on the tea leaves is what sets kejek tea apart from other teas, and it's how the tea got its name. Kejek means to step on in Indonesia. Narrator: Apandi spends 15 minutes stepping and squeezing up to 5 kilograms of leaves. Narrator: This sap is what gives kejek tea its characteristic color. Some say it also gives the tea a distinctive flavor and aroma compared to other teas. Narrator: He roasts the leaves one more time before they are ready to sell. Apandi works with vendors who sell the tea at the local market. Narrator: Tea plants were first brought to Indonesia in the 17th century, but it wasn't until 1828 that tea plantations were established throughout the country. The industry grew quickly, and by the early 20th century, Indonesian tea was exported throughout Europe.

gaining popularity for its premium quality. But in recent decades, aging tea plantations have been producing lower-quality tea leaves. As a result, many farmers switched to growing more profitable crops like vegetables and trees for palm oil. Between 2001 and 2020, the area of tea plantations in Indonesia decreased by nearly 14%. The decline in tea fields means an uncertain future for 300,000 people who work in Indonesia's tea industry, including pickers like Iip. Narrator: Less tea, as well as a lack of governmental support, access to new technology, and education around the best agricultural practices have led to a drop in the quality of the leaves. Narrator: Apandi says these challenges mean it's not viable to produce tea every day. He's turned to working other jobs like herding sheep and growing vegetables to make ends meet. Apandi is also helping preserve another tradition in Garut. The Nyaneut tradition is a tea-drinking ritual

that's been practiced by Indonesia's Sundanese ethnic group for generations. And it's one Dasep Badrussalam has been practicing for a decade. He's been buying kejek tea from Apandi since 2016. He says he buys it for its supposed health benefits. Narrator: To make the tea, Dasep boils the water on a traditional clay stove called a hawu, then pours it into a teapot containing the leaves. But the Nyaneut tradition is not only about how one makes the tea. There are rules for how to drink it, too. Narrator: According to tradition, these steps help the body properly receive all the benefits from the tea. Nyaneut tradition has been used to bring communities together for generations. Dasep also believes it could be the key to saving West Java's tea industry. He hosts a yearly festival aimed at preserving Nyaneut tradition for locals.

and promoting it to tourists. Apandi's kejek tea plays a central role in the festival. Narrator: As for Apandi, he plans to continue making tea as long as he can.

How Indonesia’s Last Foot-Pressed Kejek Tea Factory Is Still Standing | Business Insider

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Business Insider

Kejek tea production requires 150 kilograms of green tea leaves daily, but the industry is declining, with over 56,000 acres lost in 19 years.

Manual harvesting by pickers like Iip is still common, with the topmost shoots providing the tea's bitter taste.

Apandi Oos, the last tea producer in his district, has adapted by investing in a roasting machine to improve the tea-making process.

The Unique Process and Challenges of Kejek Tea

Kejek tea stands out due to the unique process of stepping on the tea leaves, which gives it its name and characteristic color.

The tea industry in Indonesia grew rapidly after the establishment of plantations in the 19th century, but recent decades have seen a decline in tea production due to aging plantations and farmers switching to more profitable crops.

This decline has created an uncertain future for the 300,000 people working in the tea industry, leading to a drop in tea quality and making it challenging for producers like Apandi to sustain their livelihoods.

The Nyaneut Tradition of Tea in West Java

The Nyaneut tradition of making and drinking tea has been practiced by Indonesia's Sundanese ethnic group for generations.

Dasep Badrussalam has been buying kejek tea for its health benefits since 2016 and follows the traditional method of preparation.

The tradition not only aims to provide health benefits but also brings communities together, with Dasep hosting a yearly festival to preserve it and support West Java's tea industry.

Apandi's kejek tea is a key feature of the festival, which aims to promote the tea to tourists.

The narrator highlights Apandi's commitment to making tea for as long as possible.

The festival plays a significant role in showcasing the tea's importance and attracting visitors.